Where We're Going, We Don't Need Circles

This is a watch that's all about the details. The Tortue is not part of the standard Cartier collection but rather a case shape that originated in 1912 and surfaces every so often. Cartier has frequently used the Tortue as a platform for complications, even though the 1912 original was a time-only model. This Tortue was part of the Collection Privée Cartier Paris, a collection that ran from 1998–2008. Models from the CPCP were meant to be a step up in finishing and movements from the standard Cartier models being offered. The dials are 18k gold, with a flower guilloche pattern under the hands. The hands themselves are Breguet style hands, commonly seen in very early Cartier watches but which have since been reserved for special editions. The well-finished movement is based on the Piaget 430P, a super thin movement usually found in the Piaget Altiplano. To top it off, this one (of the limited edition of 150) has "Paris" under the Cartier logo to define it as part of the high-quality run of the Collection Privée Cartier Paris.

The Tank Americaine is a mix between the original Tank and the elongated Cintree. While the original Tank is pure design perfection, those of us with larger wrists often prefer a watch with longer lug-to-lug dimensions. The classic roman numerals and inner railroad track of Cartier are present, along with the steel-blued hands. The magic here is that Cartier was able to take a classic design and stretch it out to bring something new to the world, while keeping it instantly recognizable in all proportions as part of the Tank family.